the unique wines of the Azores: exploring Portugal’s atlantic terroir

The Azores – A Hidden Gem in the Wine World

The Azores, an archipelago in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, is one of the most unique wine regions in the world. With a history of winemaking dating back to the 15th century (first settlements of the Portuguese people began in 1432 on the Island of Santa Maria), these volcanic islands produce wines unlike any other, thanks to their volcanic soil, strong oceanic influence, and rare indigenous grape varieties. Today, the Azores boast three official Denominação de Origem Controlada (DOC) regions—Pico, Graciosa, and Biscoitos—each with its own distinctive characteristics. In this blog post, we will explore what makes the wines of the Azores so special, from the diverse terroirs to the fascinating native grape varieties.

The Three DOC Regions of the Azores: Pico, Graciosa & Biscoitos

DOC Pico: The Island of Stone-Walled Vineyards

The most famous wine-producing island in the Azores is Pico, home to some of the world’s most breathtaking vineyards. Aroung 987ha of vineyards count to Picos Wine Region, which is a Unesco Heritage Site. Pico’s volcanic landscape is covered in black basalt stone walls, known as currais, which protect the vines from the harsh Atlantic winds and salty sea spray. The soil here is volcanic, nutrient-poor, but rich in minerals, giving the wines an intense minerality and salinity.

• Main Grape Varieties: Arinto dos Açores, Verdelho, and Terrantez do Pico
• Wine Styles:
  • White Wines: High acidity, pronounced minerality, citrus and sea breeze aromas
  • Fortified Wines: Traditionally made in the style of Madeira, with oxidative nutty flavors

DOC Graciosa: The Land of Fresh and Lighter Wines

Unlike the rugged volcanic landscapes of Pico, Graciosa has softer, more fertile soils, leading to a different style of wine. The wines here are generally lighter, fresher, and more aromatic, often with a lower alcohol content compared to those from Pico.

• Main Grape Varieties: Verdelho, Arinto, and Fernão Pires
• Wine Styles:
  • White Wines: Fresh, floral, and elegant with a touch of salinity
  • Table Wines: Less intense minerality compared to Pico, more fruit-forward

DOC Biscoitos: The Island of Fortified Wines

The smallest of the three DOC regions, Biscoitos (Terceira Island), is best known for its fortified wines, which have been produced here since the 16th century. The vineyards, like those in Pico, are also planted in black basalt soils. In some sites we have a bigger layer of hummus tho’ bringing some more nutrients to the vines. This soil is giving the wines their signature minerality.

• Main Grape Varieties: Verdelho, Arinto, and Terrantez do Pico
• Wine Styles:
  • Fortified Wines: Rich, oxidative, with nutty and caramel notes
  • White Wines: Crisp, saline, and full of character

Vineyard of the wine producer materramenta. Each parcel holds about 9 vines, which in turn are all planted individually in a hole surrounded by stones to procet each plant.

Indigenous Grape Varieties of the Azores

One of the most remarkable aspects of Azorean wines is the use of rare, indigenous grape varieties, many of which are found only in this region. Given their high acidity and minerality, Azorean wines pair beautifully with seafood and fresh dishes.

Arinto dos Açores – The Signature Grape

• Exclusive to the Azores, not the same as mainland Arinto
• High acidity, strong minerality, and saline character
• Notes of citrus, green apple, and wet stone
• Perfect for aging due to its acidity and structure

Verdelho – The Historical Star

• Originally from Madeira but thrives in the Azores
• Aromatic, with notes of tropical fruit, citrus, and sea spray
• Used in both dry and fortified wines

Terrantez do Pico – The Rarest of Them All

• Extremely rare and hard to cultivate
• Naturally high acidity and strong structure
• Complex flavors of citrus, spice, and fresh herbs

Bastardo & Castelão – The Reds of the Azores

• While the Azores are known for whites, some red varieties grow here too
• Bastardo (Trousseau) and Castelão produce light, elegant reds with earthy and spicy notes

In the Wine Museum in Bisoitos you can find a variety of vines – from Riesling to Castelão and Arinto dos Açores.

What Makes Azorean Wines So Special?

Volcanic Terroir & Black Basalt Soils

Azorean vineyards are planted in black volcanic soil, which is nutrient-poor but rich in minerals, giving wines an unmistakable saline and mineral-driven character. The porous basalt also helps retain heat, aiding grape ripening.

The Influence of the Atlantic Ocean

With strong winds, high humidity, and salty air, the Azores have a cool, maritime climate. This results in wines with high acidity, lower alcohol levels, and fresh, vibrant flavors. Like many of the traditional dishes, the wines are also characterised by the ocean. And as the saying goes: what grows together, goes together.

Here are some top pairings:

• Arinto dos Açores → Grilled fish, oysters, seafood risotto
• Verdelho → Fresh goat cheese, sushi, white meats
• Terrantez do Pico → Rich shellfish dishes, lemon-based sauces
• Fortified Wines → Aged cheeses, dried fruits, and desserts

The Iconic Stone-Walled Vineyards (Currais)

Due to extreme weather conditions, vines are planted in small enclosures of black volcanic stone. These walls trap heat and protect the vines from wind and salt spray, creating a unique microclimate.

During our visit to Biscoitos (Terceira) in February this year (2025) to the producer Materramente, we learnt that this winery has started an attempt to plant vines in the traditional way. It is a very small plot and only a few plants to test out. In a few years it will become clear whether viticulture is possible in this way, as the traditional method with the stone walls requires a lot of manual labour, much more than in other viticulture. If at least a few vines could be planted ‘normally’, this would support the small producers in their production and allow them to produce a little more and with simpler methods.

Winemaking in the Azores dates back to the 15th century, with fortified wines once being exported across Europe and the Americas. Today, a new generation of winemakers is reviving these traditions with a focus on sustainability and quality.

Conclusion: Why You Should Try Azorean Wines

Azorean wines offer an unparalleled taste of Portugal’s Atlantic terroir. From the saline freshness of Pico’s white wines to the historic fortified wines of Biscoitos, these wines are pure expressions of volcanic soil, ocean influence, and rare grape varieties.

If you’re looking for a truly unique wine experience, the Azores should be on your radar. Have you ever tried a wine from the Azores?🍷🌋